AAH - Fleas!

Many dogs and cats have a few fleas during the year, however, all animals are not affected by them in the same way. The degree of irritation can vary from none, to being allergic to the flea's saliva. These animals may itch for up to a week after just one flea bite. One or two fleas can cause a significant problem for the flea allergic animal, and make it difficult, if not impossible, to recognize the flea as the source of the problem.

On the other hand, some animals can be loaded with fleas before they scratch or bite themselves at all. A low sensitivity to fleas does not mean a developing flea infestation should not be treated. Repeated exposure to fleas can increase your animal's sensitivity and develop into an allergy. Not only the problem of flea bite sensitivity, but also the degree of flea attraction may vary greatly, even among animals in the same household. (Cats are notorious for harboring fleas without showing problems, but can also develop allergies.)

Adult fleas which are on or near the skin surface, small and dark brown in color and move quickly,
Adult flea excrement in the coat, which appear small, dark brown, cylindrical and often curled at one end. This flea "dirt" will turn reddish brown when wet because it is composed of digested blood.
The veterinarian may recognize or suspect flea-induced skin disease when no fleas nor flea excrement are seen.

WHERE - In the House ??

Wandering pets and wildlife bring flea eggs and larvae into your yard. Pets and people bring fleas from the yard into the house. The adult flea bites your dog or cat to get a blood meal for the nutrients it needs. The adult flea stays on your pet . It lays its eggs on the host animal, although many eggs will fall off. The flea egg hatches and develops through several larval phases and a pupa stage (cocoon) before- becoming an adult. Larvae migrate away from light - into cracks, crevices, and under furniture, cushions. etc.. Also, fleas can hop over 1 mile in one hour. Thus, eggs, larvae, pupae and adults can be anywhere in the environment, indoors and outdoors, mostly near where they've fallen off an animal.

In winter, larvae, pupae, adults and some or all eggs will be frozen and killed outdoors, but infestation problems may persist indoors. The "egg to egg" cycle, which can take as little as 3 weeks in the summer, may be delayed to 8 months or more with cooler temperatures and reduced humidity. Thus, during the cold months, flea infestations, outside, may be virtually eliminated, but households may continue with an infestation - apparent or inapparent.

In summer, especially late summer and early fall, the mild environmental conditions outdoors and indoors can result in the rapid development of heavy flea infestations. Starting with only 10 fleas, your pet and household could end up with some 90,000 flea eggs in 30 days. It is not uncommon for pet owners to leave their "clean" home for a few weeks (or months) and return to clouds of hopping, hungry fleas.

Controlling them everywhere - in the home, on all pets, and in the yard. No single insecticidal treatment can kill all of the fleas all of the time. There is no "super" insecticide; although some of the newer products are getting closer it still requires effort and persistence to minimize flea problems.
Flea pupae are virtually impervious to insecticides: this means that fleas will continuously emerge from this stage, often for months. Unless there is insecticide present that will kill these emerging fleas and stop eggs from hatching, infestations can continue or recur.

There are many factors affecting the insecticidal efficacy of a product. These include the relative number of fleas on the animal, the environmental infestation, climatic conditions, insecticide potency, thoroughness and regularity of application and the pet's habits.

FLEA CONTROL

Flea control has been revolutionized with newer products such as Frontline®, Advantix® and Advantage®.. These medications are so effective at flea control that when used as directed and purchased through a veterinarian (to insure quality control) the companies GUARANTEE flea control. Also, these newer products are much less toxic to your pet and people in your household than flea and tick collars, sprays, powders and dips. By investing in the best flea prevention medications available for your pet, you will eliminate your pet's discomfort and any household infestation with fleas.

All animals and the environment should be cleaned and treated. Products used must have lasting effects or be repeated to keep effective levels during the flea life cycle, which can take months.

Animals:: Shampooing will help remove fleas and eggs from your pet. Realize that even with "flea shampoo" - most chemical is rinsed off, leaving the pet unprotected. So follow with a monthly spot-on product such as Frontline®, Advantix®,or Advantage®. These products take much less effort than older style sprays and powders, and also may be necessary for prevention in flea-sensitive or allergic animals. Flea Collars are less effective, but can sometimes be combined with other products. However, not all products can be combined (Check with us or your veterinarian before using combinations!)
Indoors:: Wash or replace animal bedding. Mop wood and tile floors. Vacuum carpeting, under furniture (including cushions), along baseboards and in closets. Don't forget the car, basement, attic and garage if a pet gets in those areas at all. After vacuuming, the eggs, larvae and pupae are in the vacuum bag, so dispose of it outdoors in air-tight plastic bags.

As an alternative to a professional exterminator, use a premise spray with either fenoxycarb or methoprene and an adulticide (we suggest Siphotrol® House Spray). Use on carpets and rugs, bedding, under furniture and furniture cushions, corners, cracks, crevices, closets, car, basement, garage, etc.. During bad weather, it may be appropriate to only use premise spray in a few rooms at a time, then air them out briefly. Follow label instructions. Animals and people should not contact treated areas until dry. Food and fish tanks should be covered, and birds should be out of the house until odor is not detectable.
Outdoors:: Depends on season and confinement situation. Mowing, raking and bagging debris prior to treatment may help. Use a lawn product, preferably containing chlorpyrifos. Treat especially those areas where flea larvae are likely to be: under steps, structures, bushes or ground cover, where they will be protected.

WITH ALL PRODUCTS - READ AND FOLLOW ALL MANUFACTURERS INSTRUCTIONS UNLESS SPECIFICALLY ADVISED OTHERWISE BY YOUR VETERINARIAN.

FLEAS - A Problem?